Drive at least for 10-15 minutes so the engine system warms up nicely or you’ll get a bad tune. Speed nicely at least upto half the top speed of the bike. I am here to help if anything goes wrong.
Tachometer is very handy and a must for a newbie or the tuning process will be very slow or painful or imperfect.ĭisclaimer: Though whatever I have written here wont do any damage to your machine, finally you must not blame me for whatever happens. This Guide Applies ToĪll the single cylinder bikes, 2 stroke or 4 stroke having a carburetor. Power, Speed, Extra premium, normal unleaded etc. Also make sure you do not change the fuel type while tuning i.e. Your machine must have finished at least one service ~500kms or more. You know where your engine is and where your carb is 😉 and you have a screw driver/blunt knife with you. The next assumption is that your engine is not DEAD. That is, there is no oil leaking from it etc etc. My point is, I assume that your engine is in perfect condition. If not, then you are too amateur to read this guide.Įvery bike has a engine (motor/mill/muscle) and a carburetor (breathing system/heart) 😉 – Yeah I know that. I am assuming that you know driving very well and have completed at least 1000kms on road. An optimal mixture gets maximum performance from your machine. This guide aims at tuning the fuel/air screw to give you an optimal air-fuel mixture. May be the following will help you in tuning your mean machine for optimal power delivery and best fuel economy. Or your engine overheats even if you did not race too much.Or your bike is just missing that smooth acceleration whenever you want?.Engine gives hiccups when you open the throttle?.Has the mechanic has screwed up your tuning?.Suddenly, the fuel efficiency has reduced after a service?.Does someone have the same bike as yours and are you tired of losing to him in drag races?.Are you tired of cold starts? Need to raise the throttle everyday to get the cold engine running?.
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